While most people chose to celebrate Carnival on crowded streets watching parades go by, or by going to over-crowded beaches, Cesar & I opted for a much more remote place to enjoy our time off work at an eco camp on the Orinoco Delta. After only an hour car ride and half hour in a boat, we were already in a different world. A true adventure, we were able to enjoy a place that most people have to travel half-way across the world to get a snapshot of (nearly 100% of the tourists that come to this part part of Venezuela are in fact not Venezuelan, but European or Russian) - we practically have access to this place in our backyard.
We arrived to San Jose de Buja (1hr. drive from Maturin) after sunset on Saturday. By this time it was dark enough that I found myself questioning what I was thinking stepping into a boat when we couldn't see where we were going. Fortunately the driver knew these waters very, very well. Directing the boat with nothing more than a headlamp and his knowledge of these "highways," he was able to predict every bend in the river and avoid any obstacles. The only light sources along the way, other than the headlamp, came from the bonfires in the occasional palafitos (stilt dwellings built over water) that serve as shelter to the Warao people. We finally reached the eco camp where were greeted by our tour guide, shown the palafito we would call home for the next few days, and ate a nice vegetarian-friendly meal. For the next few days, we would enjoy boat trips up and down the river, taking in the sights and sounds of the jungle, to catch a glimpse of a variety of wildlife and to observe how the Warao people have managed to survive in this area for thousands of years.
Our first morning I woke up to the "concert" - the sound of the jungle creatures including monkeys and birds starting their day. Cesar began the day fishing for piranhas from the palafito. The first outing on the boat, we managed to see capuchin monkeys, yellow-chested macaws, among a variety of other tropical birds, as well as taste some of the treats the jungle has to offer, including the nectar of some exotic-looking flower and river cacao, a cousin of the cacao that is used for making chocolate. We ended the day with a cayman hunt, but were unsuccessful in spotting any.
The following morning we set out for a short, early-morning outing by boat again, but one quite different from the larger, motorized type we had been traveling in.... this time we were powered by a single paddle in a six-seater balsa wood canoe, the traditional form of transportation for which the Warao are named. From this vantage point, we were much closer to the water, and without the noise of a motor, we were able to see things that might normally be scared off by a motor including several toucans and some sort of large exotic rodent. We returned to the camp for a quick breakfast, and then back in the larger boat for a longer adventure. Red howler monkeys, which can be heard from miles away, were the big sighting this time around, as were the freshwater dolphins. Later in the day we set out to go shopping upriver, where you can buy all the finest goods made of Moriche - the "tree of life" for the Warao. Aside from baskets and hammocks, these trees are used to make shelter using the palms and fibers, and "yogurt" and even alcohol from its fruit. When they have taken everything they can use from these trees, the remaining trunks are left out in the forest for several days so that insects can lay their eggs in them - the larvae make a great source of protein and are regular part of the Warao diet. Cesar couldn't resist trying one! In preparation for our afternoon jungle walk, we covered ourselves in insect repellent and clothed ourselves as much as possible without suffocating in the humidity. We got a quick, muddy tour of just a tiny bit of the jungle, and were given pointers on what we would need to survive if we got lost - food (termites & gumballs), water source (from a tree, actually), shelter (from the moriche) and medicine (a tree resin that has curing properties). After that, we went upriver for a quick tour of the new farm that is starting up as a collaboration between the eco camp and the Warao community. The idea behind the farm is to provide the community with locally-grown organic produce. Our next stop was a bit farther upstream where we were able to catch a beautiful sunset. The night ended with another search for cayman, but we were yet again unsuccessful.
Our final day on the river was the quietest. After waking up to monkeys outside the cabin, we just hung out around the eco camp for a good part of the morning. We later set out to do some piranha fishing, but among the 8 or 9 people that were on the boat, we were only able to catch 2 fish. Later in the day, Cesar and I were given an exclusive tour of the farm, where we sampled the first watermelon of the harvest - quite a treat! Before I knew it, it was time to head back to Maturin, tired, yet refreshed from all that we were able to see and do. Being that it is so close-by, I hope to go back soon enough.
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