making the most of carnival break

So I had this blog all ready to go last week and when I logged-in to do one last read-over, my latest additions apparently did not save. So, after a second attempt, it's finally here.
While most people chose to celebrate Carnival on crowded streets watching parades go by, or by going to over-crowded beaches, Cesar & I opted for a much more remote place to enjoy our time off work at an eco camp on the Orinoco Delta. After only an hour car ride and half hour in a boat, we were already in a different world. A true adventure, we were able to enjoy a place that most people have to travel half-way across the world to get a snapshot of (nearly 100% of the tourists that come to this part part of Venezuela are in fact not Venezuelan, but European or Russian) - we practically have access to this place in our backyard.

We arrived to San Jose de Buja (1hr. drive from Maturin) after sunset on Saturday. By this time it was dark enough that I found myself questioning what I was thinking stepping into a boat when we couldn't see where we were going. Fortunately the driver knew these waters very, very well. Directing the boat with nothing more than a headlamp and his knowledge of these "highways," he was able to predict every bend in the river and avoid any obstacles. The only light sources along the way, other than the headlamp, came from the bonfires in the occasional palafitos (stilt dwellings built over water) that serve as shelter to the Warao people. We finally reached the eco camp where were greeted by our tour guide, shown the palafito we would call home for the next few days, and ate a nice vegetarian-friendly meal. For the next few days, we would enjoy boat trips up and down the river, taking in the sights and sounds of the jungle, to catch a glimpse of a variety of wildlife and to observe how the Warao people have managed to survive in this area for thousands of years.
Our first morning I woke up to the "concert" - the sound of the jungle creatures including monkeys and birds starting their day. Cesar began the day fishing for piranhas from the palafito. The first outing on the boat, we managed to see capuchin monkeys, yellow-chested macaws, among a variety of other tropical birds, as well as taste some of the treats the jungle has to offer, including the nectar of some exotic-looking flower and river cacao, a cousin of the cacao that is used for making chocolate. We ended the day with a cayman hunt, but were unsuccessful in spotting any.

The following morning we set out for a short, early-morning outing by boat again, but one quite different from the larger, motorized type we had been traveling in.... this time we were powered by a single paddle in a six-seater balsa wood canoe, the traditional form of transportation for which the Warao are named. From this vantage point, we were much closer to the water, and without the noise of a motor, we were able to see things that might normally be scared off by a motor including several toucans and some sort of large exotic rodent. We returned to the camp for a quick breakfast, and then back in the larger boat for a longer adventure. Red howler monkeys, which can be heard from miles away, were the big sighting this time around, as were the freshwater dolphins. Later in the day we set out to go shopping upriver, where you can buy all the finest goods made of Moriche - the "tree of life" for the Warao. Aside from baskets and hammocks, these trees are used to make shelter using the palms and fibers, and "yogurt" and even alcohol from its fruit. When they have taken everything they can use from these trees, the remaining trunks are left out in the forest for several days so that insects can lay their eggs in them - the larvae make a great source of protein and are regular part of the Warao diet. Cesar couldn't resist trying one! In preparation for our afternoon jungle walk, we covered ourselves in insect repellent and clothed ourselves as much as possible without suffocating in the humidity. We got a quick, muddy tour of just a tiny bit of the jungle, and were given pointers on what we would need to survive if we got lost - food (termites & gumballs), water source (from a tree, actually), shelter (from the moriche) and medicine (a tree resin that has curing properties). After that, we went upriver for a quick tour of the new farm that is starting up as a collaboration between the eco camp and the Warao community. The idea behind the farm is to provide the community with locally-grown organic produce. Our next stop was a bit farther upstream where we were able to catch a beautiful sunset. The night ended with another search for cayman, but we were yet again unsuccessful.













Our final day on the river was the quietest. After waking up to monkeys outside the cabin, we just hung out around the eco camp for a good part of the morning. We later set out to do some piranha fishing, but among the 8 or 9 people that were on the boat, we were only able to catch 2 fish. Later in the day, Cesar and I were given an exclusive tour of the farm, where we sampled the first watermelon of the harvest - quite a treat! Before I knew it, it was time to head back to Maturin, tired, yet refreshed from all that we were able to see and do. Being that it is so close-by, I hope to go back soon enough.

... in trinidad, actually

So I know the name of this blog is "in venezuela," but in order for me to stay in Venezuela for an extended period of time I had to re-enter the country to get new stamps on my passport... meaning a weekend trip to the of Trinidad & Tobago, an "archipelago state" separated by the Gulf of Paria that is actually visible from Venezuela. The trip was confirmed at the last minute and as soon as Cesar found out I was going he did everything possible to make sure he got to go too. Little did I know he had more than just another one of our adventures in mind!


Travel through Venezuela and on to Port of Spain went incredibly smooth (especially when you compare it to my travels home in June!). We (Cesar & I plus the group from the school) left Maturin early Saturday morning for Caracas, where we made our connecting flight to Port of Spain, Trinidad. Greeted by our driver, we headed to the hotel, ate lunch, and then ventured out to a mall for a glimpse of how much diversity is contained in this little island - Spanish, African, French, Indian, British and Amerindian history and culture have made their mark throughout the country.

The next day we took a picturesque drive through the mountains to reach the popular beach at Maracas Bay, located on the northern coast of Trinidad. It was a short visit to the beach - enough to enjoy the water, and for the daring ones, a chance to try the signature shark & bake meal.

From that point we headed back towards Port of Spain, stopping at Mount St. Benedict's, a church situated up in the hills bordering the city. From that point we were able to see all of Port of Spain and beyond. By that time it was late afternoon, and what better to do in late afternoon than watch the birds come in to nest? T&T is known for being a bird-watcher's paradise, as it is home to hundreds of species of birds. We set out in boat to see what kind of wildlife we could come across in the Caroni Bird Sanctuary.... fiddler crabs, tree-climbing crabs, snakes, and of course, a variety of birds including the national bird, the scarlet ibis, which comes to nest daily on a little island - we came as close as possible without disturbing them. (hard to tell in this pic but the island is covered in red dots - scarlet ibis - and the white birds that are neighbors to the ibis)

Monday, the final full day of our adventure, our tour of Trinidad took us further south to Pitch Lake, one of three natural asphalt lakes in the world. I had no idea what to expect, but found it to be very... interesting. We walked over pitch (the raw material from which asphalt is made) and bathed in the sulfur pools that form in the crevices of the pitch during the rainy season and are said to have healing powers. This is an action shot of me jumping over the crevices...

Heading back north, we stopped at a mall in San Fernando, the second largest city in Trinidad for some quick shopping & lunch. The next stop of the day gave great insight to the diversity of religion and culture in T&T. Hinduism was brought to the island after slavery was outlawed and the British began bringing over indentured workers from India to work on the island's plantations. Under colonialism, the practice of the Hindu religion was initially not accepted on British territory, so one man got creative and built a Hindu temple on the water. The temple is known as the Waterloo Temple or the Temple in the Sea, a picturesque monument not only to the Hindu faith but the story of creative resistance through times of oppression.
 
Following our visit to the Temple in the Sea, we went to the sight of several Hindu temples (an Ashram), including the Hanuman Temple which is famous for the 85ft. statue, the tallest of its kind outside of India. It was a moving experience to witness the detail and dedication in the architecture, the result of work that was done day and night, rain or shine for two years by a group of 20 artisans.

The trip was just a quick glimpse into what the country holds, and it was very interesting to see not only the similarities but also the stark differences between Venezuela & Trinidad. The two countries have so much in common (wildlife, abundance of natural resources, landscapes, etc.), but it is amazing to see the different directions the countries are headed in. Coming from Venezuela, there was such a sense of progress and growth in this tiny country. Even going to the grocery store was a highlight of the trip, finding the same variety of products that can be found in the US, a reflection on being a capitalist-friendly country vs. Venezuela's anti-imperialism.
Everything went by so quickly, it's hard to believe we were able to fit so much into such a small amount of time. Next time I hope to make more time for the beach and visit the sister island of Tobago - famous for the laid back island culture, scuba diving, coral reefs and... destination weddings!
I have to say the most memorable part of the trip wasn't actually on the island, but on the plane ride back!! Three years together and many adventures across borders... just the beginning for Cesar & I. I will post a picture soon :)

quick trip to the rainforest

 

So far we have made it to the beaches of Sucre (several hours along winding backroads), La Gran Sabana/ Roraima & the border with Brazil (12 hours+ by car), Amazonas & Caracas (by overnight buses), etc., etc. yet somehow we had not found time to take the hour drive to Morichal Largo in the past two years that I have been here. We finally got our act together and made it to Morichal Largo, where we jumped in a boat and took a two hour boat ride downriver.

Morichal Largo (a morichal is a river fed but underground springs) is known for being the longest morichal in the world. Within a few minutes on the boat we spotted capuchin monkeys (named after the capuchin monks which were the first missionaries in Venezuela) and all along we saw a variety of tropical birds - from small parrots (like the one we have at the house) to giant vultures (not so pretty, but noted for their size) - as well as butterflies, frogs & turtles. The wildlife highlight for me would have to be the howler monkeys that were perched on a branch that hanging over the water. After the first two hour stretch, Cesar decided it was time to cool off (images of piranhas, crocodiles, eels, rays and any other mysterious tropical creatures lurking in the murky water flashed in my mind) as he jumped in the water. The driver of our boat assured us that it was safe in this spot of the river because of the nice current. Soooo..... I was tempted to jump in as well!

On the return stretch of our trip we stopped for sandwiches on the riverbank (there was a cute little hut with a picnic table for us). By mid-afternoon we were back at the house, impressed that we were able to have such a great mini-adventure so close-by. Feeling pretty lucky - how many people can say they can take a weekend trip to the rainforest?

Moriches (giant palm trees which grow along the morichal)

back for another year..... or so is the plan

Haven't had much of a chance to write since my return to Maturin, but yes, I'm back and am gearing up for another year here. It was a great visit home, nice to see everyone after such a long time, and as always it went by too fast! Since my warm welcome back, the last two weeks have been spent setting up the classroom, preparing orientation materials, and meeting the new "imports" (foreign teachers). Not much news to report on so far.

But, in case you were wondering, the two exotic birds that I wrote about a few months ago are looking much better than they did when we originally got them. Feathers have grown in and they are much more colorful. The big bird has even gotten comfortable enough with a few people that it laughs (just like this: hahahah!). I guess they were looking so good that Cesar decided it was time to expand the bird family. Cesar told me last weekend he had a surprise for me.... turns out it involved four parakeets of all different colors (above photo).

Soooo, who knows what's in store for the next year..... possibly a visit to Angel Falls (tallest waterfall in the world), more time at the farm, hikes in the mountains, relaxing on the beach???
I was avoiding having to do this but I think I will have to send out a password to people so they can access my blog.... hopefully I get the link out to everyone that wants it!

arrived safe & sound

Okay, I was going to do a deep reflection on the past year in Venezuela before leaving, but had difficulties accessing blogspot (hmmmm.....), so maybe I will have something deep to say a little later. Just trying to enjoy Cincy while I can.

Reflections on a year abroad..... a work in progress

working on a post reflecting on the past year here.... let me know if there is anything you are interesting in hearing about!

Lately... around the house

It's been a while since I've had an amazing adventure or big event to write about, but I feel I should find something to write about since it's been so long.... especially because we have a new member of the family. Cesar received a parrot as a gift in December who has been pretty lonely since her partner flew away shortly after settling into life at the Roman household. We decided she needed some company, and to my surprise, Cesar found some BIG company for her. As I walked into the house the other day after work I noticed something new in the cage.... I guess it was kind of hard to miss, considering it's nearly the size of a chicken! The first day the little bird was quite intimidated but it seems as though the two have become friends quickly.

Okay I've never been much of a bird person, but I guess now that Cesar is going into the pet store business I have to get used to being around all kinds of animals....

... and how could you not laugh at a bird like this staring you down?
In other news, I have been put in charge of maintaining the garden out back, overseeing the survival of all kinds of plants in harsh weather conditions (the temps have been averaging 90+ degrees lately, with lots of sun). From basil to banana, papaya to palms, pinapples and plantains, watermelon, orange, aloe vera and coriander, the garden is quite diverse.

The backyard: lots of palms, the barbeque grill Cesar recovered.

Basil, aloe vera, etc.

Orange tree, with a tiny papaya tree establishing just to the left.

Pinapple, the recovering banana plant and plantain plants.